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In the Diriamba, Jinotepe and San Marcos festivals, these offerings include picadillo (a typical shredded beef dish), ajiaco (a pork and tortilla dish), and masa de cazuela or indio viejo (dishes prepared with pork or beef and tortilla dough). Masaya is known for its baked goods, rosquillas (a kind of cheese and cornmeal biscuit), chicha de maíz and de jengibre (fermented corn or ginger drink), nacatamales (special tamales), rice dishes, hog’s head with yucca, and beef soup. During the patron saint festivals of the northern, western and northeastern departments, this custom is not as widespread, with the exception of El Viejo in Chinandega, on the day of the Washing of the Silver, December 6, when rosquillas and tiste (a corn and cocoa drink) are given to visitors. Corn: Our Roots Corn has been one of the great contributions of the New World to humanity. It has been determined that this ancient plant originated in Mexico and Central America, and legend attributes its discovery to Quetzalcoatl, a mythical-historical character, a hero who provided civilization and guidance to the Meso-American peoples. He is said to have placed a grain of corn on the lips of the first man and the first woman so that, by eating it, “they might work and think”. The influence of corn became so great in the development of the Maya, Quiche and Inca cultures that it is present in the life of the humblest people, from the time of their birth until their death. As the cultivation of this grain spread throughout the continent, corn became a unifying element and a factor in social transformation. The development and increase in its production enabled rapid progress in socio-economic organization. Corn is also said to have magical-religious qualities. Sorcerers and priests used it in their rites and ceremonies, and the Tonalpohuali Calendar, a magical succession of 18 months comprised of 20 days each, dedicated the eighth month to the sacred rite of XILONEM, "Goddess of the Young Corn". A legend is told about XILONEM, a beautiful princess that was sacrificed during a terrible drought so that her people would not perish from hunger. The decapitation of the slave-goddess is repeated symbolically each year by the priest-farmer, incarnated in the peasant corn farmer, who detaches the first young ear (the chilote or xilote) from the plant so that the main fruit may develop plentifully and assure a rich and abundant harvest. Corn is one of Nicaragua’s basic foods and a great portion of the country’s culinary culture incorporates it as a single ingredient or mixed with others. A great variety of foods, beverages, and sweets made with corn are part of the Nicaraguan daily diet. Corn is still planted as it has been for many ages. When the first far-off lightening announces the rains, the lands are sown. A few weeks later, the feast of corn may begin. As the plant sprouts up, so do the chilotes, those ears that will not develop grains because of their position or size. And how delicious they are! They are eaten grilled, boiled, in stews, in vinegar and even raw. The corn festival continues. Soon there is new corn. A delicacy from paradise. The tender young ear is eaten with cuajada (a type of fresh cheese), and there are tamales and atol (cornstarch pudding). And if it is bitter, it is even more delicious. Then come the güirilas (tortillas made from young corn) and these are best when they are stuffed. When the corn is ripe, it is easy to store it: the plant is bent double with the ear pointing downward, and the entire cornfield becomes a granary. Who could count all the uses of corn? Here culinary fantasy has no limits. Most of the uses of corn are based on the "masa" (dough). First the corn is soaked with ashes or lime (nesquizado), rinsed and ground. Corn mills can be heard whirring in all the urban neighborhoods and in the huts in small towns. In rural cabins, you can hear the sound of the grinding stone. Ranches have large motorized mills. Out of the masa, the queen of corn is born: the tortilla. The tortilla comes in all sizes: from the smallest, for delicious hors d’oeuvres, to the large tortilla for the dinner table, fighting to hold its own against bread. Out of the masa, nacatamales are also born, beginning with the plain tamal or the tamal pisque, which can last for several days making it the classic accompaniment for a trip, tamales rellenos or stuffed tamales, and, above all, the nacatamal. There are nacatamales for all walks of life. The cacique indio: thick, big, pure without anything extraneous, good with chili pepper and marinade. The ladino: corn dough mixed with potatoes and rice. The elegant festival nacatamal: with prunes, raisins, capers and dough that has been strained through a colander. This disappears in four bites. A bit of cuajada (fresh white cheese) in the dough opens up a vast horizon of corn delicacies: the classic meatballs for holy days, delicious buñuelos (fried dough) with syrup, perrerreque (sweet baked corn and cheese cake), rosquillas (cheese and cornmeal biscuits), hojaldras (sweet tortilla-shaped pastry), viejitas (baked corn crackers with cinnamon-sugar topping), filled pastries, all of the delicacies known as “cosas de horno” (baked goods). Jinotegan pupusas are most certainly the top of the line of corn-based baked goods. Pozol is humble and modest, made from cooked corn that is then ground with a slice of sugar cane paste. It is a beverage that can compete with the exalted tiste (corn and cocoa drink) and has many advantages over any cola drink.
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